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28 June - circa 1 July 1769
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James Cook's Journal: Daily EntriesVoyaging Accounts
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On this day ...
28 June 1769


Endeavour Voyage Maps

James Cook's Journal Ms 1, National Library of Australia

Joseph Banks's Journal

Sydney Parkinson's Journal

The authorised published account of Cook's Voyage by John Hawkesworth


1769
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28 June - circa 1 July 1769

WEDNESDAY 28th Before we set out in the Morning we waited a little in hopes that the people would furnish us with some provisions, but seeing that none came we proceeded with our guide Taoahow, leaving the young chief behind us -  After walking a few miles the boat rowing along shore, we came up to a number of double canoes and [were] surprized to find in them a great number of our friends an[d] acquaintance;  here we made sure of geting some provision but we were here again disappointed, for altho the Cocoa nut trees were full of fruit, our friends had no property in them or in any thing else we wanted, we therefore imbarked in our boat and proceeded round the SE point of the Island, here the land rose in hills directly from the Sea and of course but thinly inhabited the reef was broken and danger[ou]s and had it not been for our pilot we should have found it difficult to proceed; after rowing about a league round this point of the Island we arrived at a flat, cali'd Ahowe governed by Chief Mathiabo,   here the shore is wholy cover'd by a firm ^ Reef which forms a very good harbour in which we landed and purchass'd a good supply of provisions. Here we saw an unusual sight in one house, at one end was a board of a semicircular figure to which was fasten'd 15 of the lower Jaw bones of men, all seemingly firm and in good condition with scarce a tooth wanting among them - we could not learn the reason of their being placed there — We saw here a goose and a Turkey left at which were left at Matavie by the Dolphins Capn Wallice. When we left this place King Mathiabo desired to accompany us to a friend of his who was a great man, we accordingly took him into the boat and he made us call at as many whennuas as possible but we met with nothing worth remarking, except in one place where we saw two of the largest Canoes we had seen any where upon the Island, the general face of the country was much more wooded than the other side of the Island.   the flats fruitfull and populous. In the course of our progress we bought Cocoa nutts, Bread fruit & fish more than enough   We proceeded all the way within the reef and in some places met with very shole waters.   In the evening we opend the large bay which lay opposite to that on the other side of the Island - About two thirds down the Bay we resolved to take up our lodgings for the night at a large long house in the Whennua owiourou govern'd by King Wiveraw who received us with great hospitality and orderd his people to assist us in dressing our provisions which they did with great readiness.   here we supped and occasion observed that our friend Mathiabo was certainly a great man as Wiverow with his own hands dMixed a Shell of poipoi / that is Breadfruit, Plantains &C mixed with Cocoa nut Milk and water to the consistance of Custard / for his Supper: When bed time came he complaind much of cold and desired a cloak to sleep in which was granted him as he had behaved so well all day, we went and prepared a bed for him, Mr Banks and my self, in which we two lay down, thinking that Mathiabo who was absent was gone to wash himself,   however very soon one of the Natives came and told us that our friend had made off with the cloak: at first we did not believe it but soon after Tooahow came and confirmed the report, we started up and immidiately gave chase in the dark obliging Wiverow's brother to go with us he being the first that came in our way - We pursued about 3/4 of a mile ^ and so close that when the Cloak was brought us and we return'd to our lodgings where all hand[s] were mattowed, that is frighten'd, and fled, we soon however prevail'd on some of them to return & Wiverow & his wife slept on the floar nigh us the remainder of the night —

Towards morning we were awaked by the alarming circumstance of our boat being missing, we were however soon relieved by from our uncomfortable situation by the sight of the boat which had drove from her grapling - By such time as the boat return'd it was day-light and we set off and rowd to the next W^hennua which lies on near the bottom of the bay and is governed ^ by Omae, he together with his wife accompanied us in our boat about a mile farther where we land and saw a very extraordinary curiosity called by them Mahuwe and said to be used in their Heiva's or publick entertainments as Probably as Punch is in a Puppet show; it was the figure of a man made in basket work 71/2 feet high and every other way large in proportions   the head was ornament with four Nobs resembling stumps of horns, three before and one behind   the whole of these figures are cove'd with feathers a great way, passing the bottom of the Bay where the country divides; in this passage we were obliged to come without the ^ Reef which we had been within ever sence we past the SE point of the Island. I had forgot to mention that at Oweourou which is situate on the SW side of Tearreboo about 5 Miles SE from the Isthmus, is a large safe and commodious harbour, inferior to no one on the Island and the land about it rich in produce —

We landed upon the first Whennua in Opooreonoo where we found several of our old acquaintances,   What we saw here remarkable was a Morie paved and adorned with [a] pyramid about five feet high of the fruits of Cratova & Palm nuts, on the pave'd floor near this were three skulls of men laid in a row & nigh them a little shade covering a very rough image of stone about 18 Inches high; near to the Morie stood an Altar under which lay the Skull bones of 26 Hogs and 6 Dogs. From hence we proceeded farther and met with a very extraordinary curiosity call'd Mahuwe ± and said by the Natives to be used in their Heiva's or publick entertainments, probably as punch is in a Puppet Show. It was the figure of a man made in basket work 71/2 feet high and every other way large in proportion, the head was ornamented with four nobs resembling stumps of horns three stood in front and one behind, the whole of this figure was cover'd with feathers, white for the ground upon which black imitating hair and the Marks of tattou - it had on a maro or cloth about its loins, under which were proofs of its being intended for the figure of a man —

± See Note page 21.

From hence we proceeded to Papara the seat of our friend Oborea where we meant to sleep, in this rout way we pass'd through a very good harbour, and the only one on the South side of Opooreonoo fit for shipping   it is Situate a bout 5 Miles to the westward of the Isthmus, between two small Islands that lay near the shore and about a Mile from each other;  about a League and a half to the Westward of this Harbour is the seat ofObarea where we, as I have before observed, we landed, we got here some time before night, she proved not to be at home, however we found People enough to entertain us, and therefore resolved to sleep in her house, a small neat one with ^ open bamboo walls. Near this place stands the Morie of Oamo or Obarea, a wonderfull peice of Indian Architecture and far exceeds every thing of its kind upon the whole Island, it is a long square of stone work built Pyramidically, the base is 267 feet by 87, the breadth and length at top is 177 feet by 7.   it riseth by large steps all round, like those leading up to a sun dial, there are 11 of those each 4 feet high which makes the whole height 44 feet; the foundation is of squared rockstone of a redish Colour one Corner Stone of which measured 4F..7I by 2 ft 4 In.   its thickness 15 Inches; every step was composed of one row of Coral rock very neatly squared the rest of round Stones like large pebbles which seem'd to have been worked by their uniformness in size and Shape - of the Coral Stones some were large / 31/2 feet by 21/2 /    On the middle of the top stood the figure of a bird carved in wood and near it lay the broken one of a fish carved in stone: there was no hollow or cavity in the inside the whole being fill'd up with stone -  the whole was inclosed in a Spacious Area part of one side of which it made,   the Size of this Area was 360 feet by 354F. incompass'd by a wall of stone, in it were several Etoa trees, or what I call Cypress, and Plantains. Near to this Morie were Several small ones all going to decay, and on the beach between them and the Sea lay great quantitys of human bones; near the great Morie were many large Altars Supported by 6 or 8 pillars each about 10 feet high, on which were exposed meat for Eatua or God, there we saw the Sculls and bones of many hogs and dogs. This Morie stands on the South side of Opooreonoo upon a low point of land about 100 Yards from the Sea,   it appear'd to have been built many years ago, being in a state of decay as most of their Mories are, from this it should seem that this Island has been in a more florishing state than it is a[t] present, or that Religious customs are, like most other nations, by these people less observed —

In the morning proceeded again meeting with nothing worth notice all day, only that we were a good deal retarded by reefs shoals &Ca   At night we came to Attahouroo where we had been once before on a Viset to Tootaha  Here we met with many of [our] Acquaintances who receiv'd [us] very cordially giving us a good supper and makeing us a good bed. From hence we proceeded homeward the next morning through a Country which we had before seen in our way   Viseted Tootaha and met with a favourable reception, at least he was not a We stay'd with him but a short time and then proceeded to the Fort where we arrived in the evening of Saturday July the 1st — having made the circuit of the whole Island which I estimated at some thing more than 30 Leagues,   the Plan or Sketch which I have drawn, altho it cannot be very accurate yet it will be found sufficient to point out the Situations of the different Bays and harbours and the figure of the Island and I believe is without any material error —


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© Transcription by Paul Turnbull of National Library of Australia, Manuscript 1 page 73, 2004
Published by kind permission of the Library
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