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29 October 1769
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29 October 1769


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James Cook's Journal Ms 1, National Library of Australia

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The authorised published account of Cook's Voyage by John Hawkesworth


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29 October 1769

Sunday, 29th PM Gentle breezes at N.E with Thunder and Lightning up in the Country, in the night had light airs off the land and very Foggy: in the forenoon had a gentle breeze at NNE and Clear wear. At 4 AM Unmoor'd, and at 6 weigh'd and put to sea - At Noon the Bay saild from bore North 63° W: distant 4 Leagues -

This bay is called by the Natives Tolaga. it is moderatly large and hath in it from 13 to 8 and 7 fathom a Clean sandy bottom and good Anchorage and is shelterd from all winds except those that blow from the NE quarter. It lies in the Latitude of 38°.22' So and 41/2 Leagues to the northward of Gable end Foreland     off the South point lies a small, but high Island so close near to the main as not to be distinguished from it ^the main it close to the north end of this Island at the entrance into the Bay are two high rocks, the one is high and round like a corn stack but the other is long with holes thro' it like the arches of a bridge Within these rocks is the Cove where we cut wood and fill'd our water; off the north point of the Bay is a pretty high rocky Island and about a mile without it are some rocks and breakers. The Variation of the Compass is here 14°.31' East and the Tide flows at full and change of the Moon about 6 oClock and rises and falls upon a perpendicular 5 or 6 feet.   but wither the flood comes from the Southward or northward I have not been able to determine —

During our stay in this Bay we had every day more or less trafffic with the Natives, they bringing us fish and now and then a few sweet Potatoes, and several trifles which we deem'd curiosities for these we gave them cloth, Beeds nails &Ca The Cloth we got at King Georges Island and Uliatea they Valued more than any thing we could give them and as every one in the Ship was were provided with some of this sort of Cloth.   I suffer'd every body to purchase what ever they pleased without limitation, for by this means I know'd knew that the natives would not only sell, but get a good price for every thing they brought.   this I thought would induce them to bring to market what ever the Country afforded and I have great reason to think that they did    yet it amounted to no more than what is above mention'd. We saw no ^four footed Animals either tame or wild or signs of any except Dogs and Ratts and these were very scarce ^especialy the latter the flesh of the former they eat and or^nament their clothing with their skins as we do ours with furs &c. While we lay here I went upon some of the Hills in order to view the Country, but when I came there I could see but very little of it the sight being interrupted by still higher hills    the tops and ridges of the hills are for the most part barren, at least little grows on them - but fern. But the Vallies and sides of many of the Hills were luxuriously clothed with Woods and Verdure and little Plantations of the Natives lying dispers'd up and down the Country —

We found in the woods Trees of above 20 different sorts ^specimens of each I took on board as all of them ^were unknown to any of us: the tree which we cut for fireing was something like Maple and yielded a whitish Gum,   there was another sort of a deep yallow which we imagined might prove usefull in dying - We likewise found one Cabbage tree which we cut down for the sake of the Cabbage. The Country abounds with a great number of Plants and the woods with as great a Variety of very beautifull Birds.  ma^ny of them unknown to us — The soil both of the hills and Vallies is light and sandy and very proper for produceing all kinds of Roots but we saw only sweet Potatous ^and Yamms among them - these they plant in little round hills, and have plantations of them containing several Acres neatly laid out and kept in good order and many of them are fence'd in with low pailing which can only serve for ornament.


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© Transcription by Paul Turnbull of National Library of Australia, Manuscript 1 page 132, 2004
Published by kind permission of the Library
To cite this page use: https://paulturnbull.org/project/southseas/journals/cook/17691029.html