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11 November 1769
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11 November 1769


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James Cook's Journal Ms 1, National Library of Australia

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Sydney Parkinson's Journal

The authorised published account of Cook's Voyage by John Hawkesworth


1769
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11 November 1769

Saturday 11th Fresh gales at ENE and and Clowdy hazey weather with rain. Between 7 and 8 oClock PM I returnd on board from out of the River having been about 4 or 5 Miles up it and could have gone much farther had the weather been favourable. I landed on the East side and went up on the hills ^from whence I saw or at least I thought I saw the head of the River    it here branched into several Channels and form'd a number of very low flat Islands all cover'd with a sort of Mangrove trees, and several places of the Shores of both sides of the River were cover'd with the same sort of wood: the sand banks were well store'd with Cockles, and clams and in many places were Rock Oysters. Here is likewise pretty plenty of wild Foul, such as Shags, Ducks, Curlews, and a Black Bird about as big as a Crow with a long sharp bill of a Colour between White Red and yellow. We also saw fish in the River but of what sort I know not. The Country particularly Especialy on the East side is barren and for the most part distitute of wood or any other signs of fertility, but the face of the country on the other side looked much better and is in many places cover'd with wood. We met with some of the natives and saw several more and smookes a long way inland.   but saw not the least sign of cultivation either here or in any other part about the Bay, so that the Inhabitents must live wholy on Shell and other Fish and Fern roots which they eat by way of bread — In the entrance of this River and for 2 or 3 Miles up it is very safe and commodious Anchoring in 3, 4, and 5 fathom water, and convenient places for laying a Vessel a shore where the Tide rises and falls about 7 feet and flows full and change

I could not see whether or no any considerable fresh water stream came out of the Country into this River but there are a number of small Rivulets which come from the adjacent hills — A little with[in] the entrance of the River on the East side is a high point or peninsula juting out into the River on which are the remains of one of thier Fortified towns the Situation is such that the best Engineer in Europe could not have choose'd a better for a small number of men to defend themselves against against a greater.   it is strong by nature and made more so by Art     It is only accessible on the land side, and there have been cut a Ditch and a bank raised on the inside from the top of the bank to the bottom of the ditch was about 22 feet and depth of the ditch on the land side 14 feet; its breadth was in proportion to its depth and the whole seem'd to have been done with great judgment. There had been a row of Pickets on the top of the bank and a nother on the outside of the ditch.   these last had been set deep in the ground and sloaping with their upper ends hanging over the ditch; the whole had been bur^nt down, so that it is probable that this place has been taken and distroy'd by an Enimy. The people on this side of the Bay seem now to have no houses or fix'd habitations but sleep in the open air, under trees and in small temporary shades, but to all appearence they are better off on the other side but there we have not yet set foot - In the Morning being dirty rainy weather I did not expect any of the Natives off with fish, but thinking that they might have some a shore, I sent a boat with some trade, who returnd about noon load with oysters which they got in the River ^which is abreast of the Ship, but saw no fish among the Natives —


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© Transcription by Paul Turnbull of National Library of Australia, Manuscript 1 page 141, 2004
Published by kind permission of the Library
To cite this page use: https://paulturnbull.org/project/southseas/journals/cook/17691111.html