From Bonthain to Batavia, and Cape of Good Hope
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While I remained here, two ships belonging to our India Company put into this port, and we found, among other private ships from India, one called the Dudly, from Bengal, which had proved so leaky that it was impossible to carry her back. Application had been made to the Governor and Council for leave to careen her, which had been granted; but as the wharfs had been kept in continual use, she had been put off above four months. The Captain, not without reason, was apprehensive that he might be kept here till the worms had eaten through the bottom of his vessel, and knowing that I had received particular civilities from Admiral Houting, applied to me to intercede for him, which I was very happy to do with such success, that a wharf was immediately allotted her. M. Houting is an old man, and an Admiral in the service of the States, with the rank of Commander in Chief of their marine, and the ships belonging to the Company in India. He received his first maritime knowlege on board an English man of war, speaks English and French extremely well, and does honour to the service both by his abilities and politeness: he was so obliging as to give me a general invitation to his table, in consequence of which I was often with him, and it is with pleasure that I take this opportunity of making a public acknowledgment of the favours I received from him, and bearing this testimony to his public and private merit: he was indeed the only officer belonging to the Company from whom I received any civility, or with whom I had the least communication; for I found them, in general, a reserved and supercilious set of people; The Governor, although the servant of a republic, takes upon himself more slate, in some particulars, than any sovereign prince in Europe. Whenever he goes abroad, he is attended by a party of horse guards, and two black men go before his coach, in the manner of running footmen, each having a large cane in his hand, with which they not only clear the way, but severely chastise all who do not pay the homage that is expected from people of all ranks, as well those belonging to the country as strangers. Almost every body in this place keeps a carriage, which is drawn by two horses, and driven by a man upon a box, like our chariots, but is open in front: whoever, in such a carriage, meets the Governor, either in the town or upon the road, is expected not only to draw it on one side, but to get out of it, and make a most respectful obeisance while his Excellency's coach goes by; nor must any carriage that follows him drive past on any account, but keep behind him, however pressing be the necessity for haste. A very mortifying homage, of the same kind, is also exacted by the members of the Council, called Edele Heeren, for whoever meets them is obliged to stop his coach, and, though not to, get out, to stand up in it, and make his reverence: these Edele Heeren are preceded by one black man with a slick, nor must any person presume to pass their carriage any more than that of the Governor. These ceremonies are generally complied with by the Captains of Indiamen, and other trading ships; but having the honour to bear his Majesty's commission, I did not think myself at liberty to pay to a Dutch Governor, any homage which is not paid to my own Sovereign: it is, however, constantly required of the King' S officers; and two or three days after I came hither, the landlord of the hotel where I lodged told me, he had been ordered by the shebander to let me know that my carriage, as well as others, must stop, if I should meet the Governor or any of the Council; but I desired him to acquaint the shebander that I could not consent to perform any such ceremony; and upon his intimating somewhat about the black men with sticks, I told him that if any insult should be offered me, I knew how to defend myself, and would take care to be upon my guard; at the same time pointing to my pistols, which then happened to lie upon the table: upon this he went away, and about three hours afterwards he returned, and told me he had orders from the Governor to acquaint me that I might do as I pleased. The hotel at which I resided is licensed by the Governor and Council, and all strangers are obliged to take up their abode there, except officers in his Majesty's service, who are allowed private lodgings, which, however, I did not chuse.
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Voyaging Accounts |  |
© Derived from Volume I of the London 1773 Edition: National Library of Australia call no. FERG 7243, pages 656 - 658, 2004
Published by kind permission of the Library
To cite this page use: https://paulturnbull.org/project/southseas/journals/hv01/656.html